What We Adopt from Fashion — and What We Leave Out

I am wary of the word "trend" when it comes to wedding dresses: a gown like this is sewn for photographs people will still look at in twenty years, not for a single season. Still, fashion moves, and before every collection I ask the same question: which of the directions out there truly belongs in a modest gown, and which should stay on the runway. Here are the principles that guide me, with my honest opinion on each. (Pictured: Giselle, from the Spring/Summer 2024 collection.)

Structured sleeves

Fashion swings back and forth between the soft, sheer sleeve and the structured one — a long sleeve with real presence of its own, sometimes with a small shoulder cap, dense beading, or a strong-line lace. Whenever the structured sleeve takes its turn, a modest gown comes out ahead: here the sleeve is a central element of the design to begin with, never an add-on.

Longer trains

A long train is one of the directions I am glad to adopt whenever it comes back around — it flatters almost every modest cut. Just remember that it needs someone helping to arrange it before every shot; without that, it works less well in practice than it does on the hanger.

Focused beading

Rather than covering the entire gown in dense beadwork, more designers are concentrating beading in specific zones: the neckline, sleeve edges, the waistline, the train border. The result is usually cleaner and less busy, and is also less expensive to produce. At the studio it is our default approach.

Textured fabrics

Layers of lace over a matte base fabric (rather than glossy satin) create depth and a softer play of light. The approach suits daytime weddings or venues with soft lighting, and works less well in venues with strong flash.

What doesn't always translate to a modest gown

Not every runway trend transfers cleanly to a bride who keeps modest dress. A sheer lace layer over a low neckline, a bare back covered only with tulle, a three-quarter sleeve. All of these require significant adaptation to work in a modest gown, and in most cases it is better to drop them and look for a different solution than to force a fit.

Want to see how these directions look on a real gown rather than a screen? Book an appointment.