Behind the Scenes: How a Gown Is Built at the Studio

Every gown that leaves the studio is sewn by hand. Most orders close about three months before the wedding (at least four for brides abroad), and everything described here happens inside that window. People sometimes ask me where the time actually goes — so here is the answer, stage by stage. (Pictured: Florence, from the Spring/Summer 2024 collection.)

1. Sketch

A dress starts with a hand drawing on blank paper. For bespoke work the sketch follows from the conversation with the bride (cut, sleeve length, neckline, type of beading). For a collection piece it follows from the overall concept for the season.

2. Materials

Once there is a sketch, the materials can be chosen: which lace opens the sleeve, which base fabric carries the silhouette, which Swarovski stones and beads will be used. The materials are drawn from existing stock at the studio or ordered specifically from European suppliers. When a shade is needed that does not exist in stock, custom dyeing can be ordered from the mill.

3. Pattern and toile

Before expensive fabric is cut, a test garment is made in plain fabric in white or natural. This toile is pinned onto a mannequin in the bride's measurements, which makes it possible to see the silhouette and correct it before any expensive fabric is touched. To me this is the most important stage in the process: this is where the gown learns the bride's body, and where the perfect fit brides talk about afterwards begins.

4. Cutting

Each piece is hand-cut, with the lace motif matched across seams so the pattern reads cleanly. This is the stage where earlier decisions become irreversible, so it is done slowly.

5. Beading

Every stone, bead, sequin, and pearl is set by hand. For a heavily beaded bodice that means between two hundred and four hundred hours of work by one seamstress. In a collection piece beading happens before final assembly; in a bespoke design it usually happens after the second fitting, once the silhouette is locked in.

6. Assembly

All the panels are joined together: the lace to the base fabric, the lining, the boning that holds the bodice's silhouette, the hidden zipper or buttons. By this stage the dress starts to look like itself.

7. Fittings and handover

At least three fittings before the wedding date: silhouette, seams and beading, and finally length and waistline. The gown is handed over in person, with storage instructions, a week before the wedding. The final fitting is the most emotional moment of the process — the first time the bride sees all the decisions come together into one finished gown.

Want to see this work up close? Send us a WhatsApp and we will arrange a studio visit.